How this started

We came for a few days off. We left with a domain name.

Mat, Dave and Tom arriving in Porto, mid-selfie in a colourfully painted underpass
MAT, DAVE & TOM — 4 OCTOBER, ARRIVALS DAY

It started over a plate of sardines, not a business plan. Dave, Tom and I went to Porto for a long weekend, and the whole thing got hijacked by charcoal smoke on the first night.

We found a place with braziers set up right on the cobbles outside the front door — not a barbecue tucked round the back, but grills glowing on the actual street, fish sizzling in full view of anyone walking past. Whole dourada, a stack of sardinhas, tiger prawns still curled from the heat, a steak the size of a dinner plate. Olive oil came straight off the table in a tin, poured over everything without ceremony. We ate off plates stamped with the taberna's own name in blue script, at a table that had long stopped being tidy.

That single meal reset our expectations for the rest of the trip. Every stop after it got measured against the grill on the cobbles.

An overhead view of a table on the cobbled street, loaded with grilled fish, rice, salad and olives
THE TABLE, MID-DEMOLITION

The next morning took us to Mercado do Bolhão, half-awake and mostly there for coffee, and we left with none of the things you're supposed to buy at a market and all of the things you're not — a photo of a wall of hanging garlic, a bag of dried chillies nobody asked for, a long conversation about which stall smelled the best.

Somewhere in the middle of all that we picked up a Rally Fish passport without fully meaning to — a small paper booklet, five sticker slots. We filled it without trying very hard. Numbers 19, 9, 36, 33 and 13 are stamped into a passport that's now sitting in a drawer somewhere, next to a Nortada lager glass none of us can remember packing.

Mat, Dave and Tom at a beachside table, menus out, sunglasses on
A RARE MOMENT WHERE THE MENU WAS STILL CLOSED

It ended, as these things should, on a rooftop — a strawberry caipirinha going warm in the evening heat, the light doing something dramatic to the river, and one of us saying the sentence that's the entire reason this website exists: "someone should just run this as a tour."

A strawberry cocktail on a rooftop table at sunset
THAT ROOFTOP, THAT SENTENCE

So we bought the domain. That's as far as it's gone — no bookings, no dates, no itinerary you can actually pay for yet. Just a website, a growing list of the places worth going back to, and an Instagram we're actually posting to while we work out what this becomes.

Follow along as it comes together

Grills, stickers and market hauls, posted as we find them.

@portoseafoodtours ↗